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How to Make Brassy, Damaged Hair Look Healthy

Correct it with the right cut and colour.
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Welcome to our Hair Consultation column. To request an online hair consultation from celebrity hairstylist Bill Angst, follow the instructions here.

Q: I'd like some help with my overly warm, blonde, damaged hair. I'm wondering where I should go next with the colour, as you can see it's growing out. 

Rebecca's hair texture is coarse and puffy.

I went from a dark brown to this colour at Christmas time and have had it touched up once since then. It goes from my natural colour at the roots, to an orangey colour for a couple inches, to a lighter blonde colour on the ends. A lot going on! Any ideas? 

I would like to keep it longer. My hair type is very coarse and dry and I have a lot of it. It also tends to be quite puffy. Thanks for your help! — Rebecca

A: Rebecca, I would prefer you to grow your hair and redistribute the weight with really long layers. 

Minka Kelly at Bacardi's 150th anniversary celebration in 2012.

To get there is a matter of time, since your hair is so processed with colour. This adds to the puffiness—which is a great thing for finer hair to add texture, but that you do not need.

Minka Kelly at the 2012 Art of Elysium Heaven Gala.

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From The Skincare Edit Archives

Your natural texture should only be coloured with a non-ammonia product. Ammonia colours puff up the hair cuticle, which makes the hair fuzzy and dry. A non-ammonia colour will leave your cuticle alone in its original state, so you will have less frizz and the coarse feeling will eventually go away.

The proper product to control your mane would be a styling cream-gel. Apply it on wet hair and comb your hair into style with a fine-toothed comb. 

Oribe creme for Style.

Let your hair dry naturally; this will help seal down the cuticle to help promote shine.

I would take advantage of your cowlick and direct your hair away from your face. Also, wearing your hair in a top knot when sleeping, with creme for style mostly on the ends, will soften and separate your ends.

I feel that your natural dark colour at the roots works great for you and you should keep the tips lighter to show off the wave and layers. 

Minka Kelly in the March 2011 issue of Glamour.

So I would add lowlights of your root colour from the roots to mid-way down the shaft, leaving the ends completely alone. Then I would do a gloss to help seal your cuticle and to fill your ends.


Bill Angst is one of Canada’s top celebrity hairstylists and the owner of Angst Salon at 240 Queen Street East in Toronto. Call 416-360-5942 to book an appointment.

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